Friday, April 22, 2011

How to "Stay Tailored"

I'm sure every guy reading this has bought a slim-fit shirt, suit or pants that they thought would fit like the pictures they see in GQ, Details, Esquire, etc. but when you get them home, the shirt is blousey and the suit fits like a box. That's because what these magazines fail to let you know is that in all of their photo shoots the model's clothes are pinned to from the back to give them that slim, custom appearance that is so sought after. Clothes will never fit the way these magazines portray them to off of the rack. The key is getting them tailored.

Wearing tailored clothes doesn't necessarily mean that you have to spend thousands of dollars to have well fitting clothes, it means that your clothes fit like they're supposed to. I'm going to give you a few tips that will make your $200 suit look like it was custom made for you.

The first and most important step is to find a good tailor, not a dry cleaner that does alterations. When you find the right tailor, you won't even have to explain what you want done to your specific piece of clothing, they'll just know. Whether it's a suit, shirt, pants or a sport coat, they can all be tailored to fit your specific needs.

Picture from last year
Suit jackets can be taken in or let out at every seem, so if you have a suit that is a few years old that doesn't fit as well as you would like, I would first recommend having your tailor taking your suit jacket in on the side and center seams. This alteration will conform your suit jacket to your body, in effect, giving you the slim design that you want and should only run you about $35-$50. The same can be done for any sport coat that you own, so that instead of looking like an ESPN commentator you'll look like a tailored gentleman.

As for pants, they can also be altered to give them a modern update that will save you money and give you that "GQ" look. First of all, if your pants are pleated and cuffed, there's no hope, so donate them. Opt for a flat front, low rise and you'll have a pant that will stay in style for years to come. Have your tailor take them in from the inseam to clean them up and slim the legs. If the waist is too loose, or in most cases too tight, ask your tailor to take in/let out your waist and seat. By having these simple updates done to both your suit jacket and pants, you can have a brand new suit for under $100!

Hammer Time
Lastly, there's an epidemic going around affecting many men and it's called blousey shirt syndrome (BSS). When you tuck your shirt in, it shouldn't look like you're trying to conceal a pillow on your back. Your shirt should be nicely fitted and lie close to your body, flowing smoothly from your fitted pants to your tailored shirt. This is a quick fix and probably one of the simplest alterations. It can be done to every button down that you own by having your tailor do what is called a dart, only costing you about $15 per shirt. All that material that hangs out when you tuck your shirt in is removed from the back of the shirt. What you are left with is two vertical seams and an great fitting shirt. Find a great tailor and you'll actually save a lot money by updating the clothes you already own.

A nicely darted shirt









Stay tailored...







































Happy Easter and Passover!
-DTH

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