How to "Stay Tailored"

I'm sure every guy reading this has bought a slim-fit shirt, suit or pants that they thought would fit like the pictures they see in GQ, Details, Esquire, etc. but when you get them home, the shirt is blousey and the suit fits like a box. That's because what these magazines fail to let you know is that in all of their photo shoots the model's clothes are pinned to from the back to give them that slim, custom appearance that is so sought after. Clothes will never fit the way these magazines portray them to off of the rack. The key is getting them tailored.

Wearing tailored clothes doesn't necessarily mean that you have to spend thousands of dollars to have well fitting clothes, it means that your clothes fit like they're supposed to. I'm going to give you a few tips that will make your $200 suit look like it was custom made for you.

The first and most important step is to find a good tailor, not a dry cleaner that does alterations. When you find the right tailor, you won't even have to explain what you want done to your specific piece of clothing, they'll just know. Whether it's a suit, shirt, pants or a sport coat, they can all be tailored to fit your specific needs.

Picture from last year

Suit jackets can be taken in or let out at every seem, so if you have a suit that is a few years old that doesn't fit as well as you would like, I would first recommend having your tailor taking your suit jacket in on the side and center seams. This alteration will conform your suit jacket to your body, in effect, giving you the slim design that you want and should only run you about $35-$50. The same can be done for any sport coat that you own, so that instead of looking like an ESPN commentator you'll look like a tailored gentleman.

As for pants, they can also be altered to give them a modern update that will save you money and give you that "GQ" look. First of all, if your pants are pleated and cuffed, there's no hope, so donate them. Opt for a flat front, low rise and you'll have a pant that will stay in style for years to come. Have your tailor take them in from the inseam to clean them up and slim the legs. If the waist is too loose, or in most cases too tight, ask your tailor to take in/let out your waist and seat. By having these simple updates done to both your suit jacket and pants, you can have a brand new suit for under $100!

Hammer Time

Lastly, there's an epidemic going around affecting many men and it's called blousey shirt syndrome (BSS). When you tuck your shirt in, it shouldn't look like you're trying to conceal a pillow on your back. Your shirt should be nicely fitted and lie close to your body, flowing smoothly from your fitted pants to your tailored shirt. This is a quick fix and probably one of the simplest alterations. It can be done to every button down that you own by having your tailor do what is called a dart, only costing you about $15 per shirt. All that material that hangs out when you tuck your shirt in is removed from the back of the shirt. What you are left with is two vertical seams and an great fitting shirt. Find a great tailor and you'll actually save a lot money by updating the clothes you already own.

A nicely darted shirt

Stay tailored...

Happy Easter and Passover!
-DTH

Graduation. Interviews. Attire.

With graduation looming upon college seniors and job availability at an all-time low, any interview that you are lucky enough to get should not be taken for gran-tit.  Everyone has a course freshman year that teaches you the interview basics, the do's and do nots, but none touch on the proper way to dress for one.

It is absolutely true what "they" say: a first impression is made in the first few minutes and before you even open your mouth you've already been judged.  As superficial as this sounds, it's the truth!  Now I don't want to sit here and tell you how prepare for or act during an interview, but you do only have one chance to make a first impression, so let me give you a few tips on what to wear.

The first step in dressing for an interview is ditching the idea that you have to wear a black suit and a "power" tie.  Power ties are for people in a powerful position and plain black suits are best left for more formal events.  I recommend investing in a well tailored, navy blue, two button suit (A nice charcoal will also work well).  It should be a staple in every man's wardrobe and can be worn for every single occasion that may arise, including interviews.

For your shirt and tie combination, "keep it simple."  A plain white or a solid french blue will do just fine.  Pairing these with a solid navy or grey tie brings this simple, conservative look together.  By keeping your shirts and ties solid, the person conducting the interview will be more likely to pay attention to what you're saying than the beautiful Jerry Garcia tie that your Mom bought your Dad ten years ago.  Save the patterned and striped ties for when you land the job.  Keep the suit, shirt and simple...let the fit of your clothes speak rather than patterns and bright colors.

Complete your outfit with a nice pair of brown or black dress shoes.  The color is up to you, but I would suggest wearing something with a point toe and low-profile.  I've really been taking notice to an Italian shoe designer, A. Testoni, who's dress shoes are available at Giltman.com at a great discounted price.  Your clothes are an investment and the higher quality of the item, the longer they will last...with the proper care.   So make the investment, it will save you money in the long-run.

Remember, you only have one chance to make a first impression.

-DTH

Suiting up for Spring

Spring is here and it's time to pack up your flannel lined suits and throw on something a bit lighter that also has some color. While you're at it brighten up the shirts and ties as well! Spring style is all about color and bright ones at that. Right now you should be thinking about packing away the dark flannel plaid shirts and adding some color to your rotation. I would first recommend starting with a light solid pastel dress shirt and either a darker contrasting solid tie or a brighter patterned tie (depending on your place of work). Solid on solid has been trending recently and is one of my favorite looks for the Spring. It is ultra classic, clean, simple and looks great on every guy no matter what size or color. By choosing a slimmer, well tailored shirt and a narrower (about 6.5-7.5cm) tie, it also transforms this classic look into something that is very modern and up to date. Always remember to keep the tie widths no wider than your suits lapels.



As for the suits...The colors and the weight of the fabrics should get lighter as the weather gets warmer and as we get deeper into Spring. It's time to break out the light browns, greys, high blues and everyone's spring time favorite, the khaki suit. Add a nice brown wingtip or oxford to complete the Spring look and please no boat shoes with suits.



Just because GQ and J. Crew show it doesn't mean you have to do it! Keep the fabrics light and stay cool!

-DTH